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30 Gallon Red Sunset
Size: 2"/10-12'
Quantity Available: 1000
Price:


$95.00
 10 or more: $85.00
 25 or more: $69.00

HARDINESS
Zones 4B - 8B

HABIT/GROWTH

`Red Sunset' has strong wood and is a vigorous, fast-grower, reaching a height of 50 feet with a spread of 25 to 35 feet. The tree makes the best growth in wet or moist places and has no particular soil texture preference. It is not especially drought tolerant on sandy soils, particularly in the southern part of the range, although it has proven tolerant of clay soil.
The tree grows rapidly and has a dense canopy in full-sun, but opens up in partial shade. Trees are often shorter in the southern part of its range unless located on a wet site. This tree is often preferred over Red Maple, Silver Maple or Boxelder when a fast-growing maple is needed, and will take on a pyramidal or oval silhouette.
Leaves retain an attractive high gloss throughout the growing season. Red flowers emerge in late December or early January in Florida and slightly later in the Northern part of its range. The seeds of `Red Sunset' Red Maple are popular with squirrels and birds leaving only modest ground litter.
`Red Sunset' Red Maple is easily transplanted and usually develops surface roots in soil ranging from well-drained sand to clay. Because of their slower growth rate and less aggressive root system than other maples 'Red Sunset' Red Maples do not often raise sidewalks.

PROPAGATION
Propagation is by grafting or cuttings but own-root cuttings are preferred to avoid graft-incompatibilities.

PEST/DISEASE
Aphids infest maples, usually Norway Maple, and may be numerous at times. Usually not too serious on red maples. High populations can cause leaf drop. Another sign of heavy aphid infestation is honey dew on lower leaves and objects beneath the tree. Aphids are controlled by spraying or they may be left alone. If not sprayed, predatory insects will bring the aphid population under control.
Scales are an occasional problem on maples. Perhaps the most common is cottony maple scale. The insect forms a cottony mass on the lower sides of branches. Scales are usually controlled with horticultural oil sprays. Scales may also be controlled with well-timed sprays to kill the crawlers.
If borers become a problem it is an indication the tree is not growing well. Controlling borers involves keeping trees healthy. Chemical controls of existing infestations are more difficult. Proper control involves identification of the borer infesting the tree then applying insecticides at the proper time.
Scorch occurs during periods of high temperatures accompanied by wind, particularly in areas with limited soil space where roots cannot expand into a large soil volume. Trees with diseased or inadequate root systems will also show scorching. Scorch symptoms are light brown or tan dead areas between leaf veins. The symptoms are on all parts of the tree or only on the side exposed to sun and wind. Scorching due to dry soil may be prevented by watering. If scorching is due to an inadequate or diseased root system, watering will have no effect.
Nutrient deficiency symptoms are yellow or yellowish-green leaves with darker green veins. The most commonly deficient nutrient on maple is manganese. Implanting capsules containing a manganese source in the trunk will alleviate the symptoms. Test soil samples to determine if the soil pH is too high for best manganese availability. Plants exposed to weed killers may also show similar symptoms.

Girdling roots grow around the base of the trunk rather than growing away from it. As both root and trunk increase in size, the root chokes the trunk. Girdling roots are detected by examining the base of the trunk. The lack of trunk flare at ground level is a symptom. The portion of the trunk above a girdling root does not grow as rapidly as the rest so may be slightly depressed. The offending root may be on the surface or may be just below the sod. The tree crown shows premature fall coloration and death of parts of the tree in more serious cases. If large portions of the tree have died it may not be worth saving. Girdling roots are functional roots so when removed a portion of the tree may die. When the girdling root is large the treatment is as harmful as the problem. After root removal, follow-up treatment includes watering during dry weather. The best treatment for girdling roots is prevention by removing or cutting circling roots at planting or as soon as they are detected on young trees.

 

 

 

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